Xiang Ge Li La

Each society fosters its own fairytales and legends about places so beautiful or so mystically powerful (or both) that they become sought after by generations of people searching for something better than what they view the world has to offer. Coronado spent his last days seeking the "fountain of youth." Dr. Livingston criss-crossed the African wilderness looking for the hidden source of the Nile River. People from all over the world travel to Cambodia each year to experience the splendor of Angkor Wat. Sadly, what most people find is that the grass is not necessarily greener on the other side of the fence; it is simply a different shade of green. I suppose in some small way this is more wisdom than we deserve, to recognize the beauty of our own surroundings through the differing beauty of another.

In China, the legend of Xiang Ge Li La--what most Westerners refer to as Shangri-La--conjures pictures of green-beyond-green valleys hidden amongst snow-capped peaks so daunting in their size that the valleys are rendered inaccesible. Within these valleys, the hidden people live beyond time and beyond care, spending their days planting and herding, much as they have for millenia, and dancing the nights away, the moon and stars the only witnesses to their simple, glorious lives. As the modern world grinds through each day, the modern person sits at a desk dreaming of this simple life. Well, it exists, but as always it exists in just another shade of green just beyond a real "fence."
The "fence:" Approximately a one-hour flight transports one from the relatively low hills of Kunming--at just over six-thousand feet--over the initial northwestern range of mountains to a small city named Zhong Dian. With only 50,000 inhabitants, this city rarely shows up on most maps, and being sequestered amidst the towering peaks on the borders of Burma and Tibet, few people wander into its limits. However, as secret as this destination may seem--kind of like my own hometown of Whitefish, MT--it harbors an international airport and is relatively easy to access. And unlike the ponderously hugh Chinese cities of Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong, and Chengdu, one need not hire a guide, or even use a map, to navigate its quaint stone streets.
Set at the widening end of a remote valley, Zhong Dian marks the entrance to the mystical land of Xiang Ge Li La. The wide valley appears to be some former lake-bed, with sparsely vegetated hillsides that lead up to towering peaks. While the weather during the winter can be rather harsh, my own journey found the nights to be dry and frigid and the days to be sunny and warm. During the sunlight hours, only the shady side of trees, hills, and buildings held a nip of the nighttime chill. And while I listened to stories of heavy snowfalls during January and February, wet rainy seasons during June and July, beautiful flowering hillsides throughout May, and October's golden, autumnal foliage, mostly what I feasted on was December's brownness with blue-beyond-blue skies where the sun's brilliance called for sunglasses and caps to shield one's eyes from blindness. Above, this seasonal lake/swamp marks the northwest exit from Zhong Dian into Xiang Ge Li La as one begins the five-day trip to Lasa (Lhasa), Tibet.
For those of you who have read my blog over the last year, you may recall a trip I took to another small city not far from Zhong Dian named Lijiang. Lijiang, formerly the seat of government in Yunnan Povince, created its charming Oldtown (gu zhen) based on the cobbled streets of Zhong Dian. Not long ago (remember that in a society that is several thousands of years old, "not long" becomes a relative term) a fire destroyed much of Lijiang, and during the rebuilding process, the city's elders decided to give it a little character. As Suli and I, and a number of other teachers, wandered the street of Zhong Dian, we recognized the similar architecture, and during the evenings, wished that the stoned streets of Zhong Dian could be made somewhat smoother, like the ones of Lijiang. The central strip of larger, rectangular stones offered the only consistent footing in the dark.
The legend of Xiang Ge Li La exists in China, as well as throughout the rest of the world, where as the name Zhong Dian finds only a slight understanding from the Chinese people, and little or no recognition from people outside of China. Therefore, in 2002, the Chinese government officially changed the name of Zhong Dian to Xiang Ge Li La. While most maps still carry the name Zhong Dian, the world's largest Tibetan Bhuddist prayer wheel stands as a golden monument on a hill near the Oldtown, celebrating the official name change. While one person can, with a great deal of effort, bring the wheel into a spin, two, three, or four make for much easier work. The wheel itself portrays Lhasan images, pictures of the giant llamissary in Tibet, and how the Chinese military liberated the Tibetan Bhuddists from their nationalist oppressors. A person does not need to be a revisionist historian to enjoy the beauty of this enormous landmark. However, its beauty does not compare with its natural surroundings and the hospitality of the area's people.

Each night, in the Oldtown's square, locals gather from 19.00-22.00h to dance to traditional Tibetan music. Anyone is allowed to join in, and for those who remain for the entire three hours, a drawing takes place at the end of the evening, the winner of which receives a prize for his or her efforts. The tribal dances reminded me somewhat of the native-American dances; proceeding in a circle, the dancers perform spins and kicks, and used intricate hand and arm motions. I suppose it could also remind one of western line-dancing, but I prefer the more rustic example of tribal celebrations. These Tibetan women dance around the town square (always in a clockwise direction), and lest anyone think they put on these costumes for the dancing, these same outfits are worn all day, every day here in Zhong Dian.

We only spent five days in Zhong Dian, but as you may be able to guess, the mystical powers of such a beautiful location made us feel like we had been away from Kunming for a lifetime. Personally, I gain my strength, my power, my portion from a source beyond this world. However, I still enjoy the beauty His creation provides on Earth. Xiang Ge Li La really exists, and its beauty flows from the power and majesty of the Creator. Therefore, it is no wonder that a visit to this remote corner of the globe should tend to fill people with wonder, the kind of wonder that forms fairytales and legends. However, back in Kunming, I still find the greenness of the grass on this side of the fence, and thank Him for the opportunity to experience all shades of beauty.